No. 20 @ The Sanctum Hotel

The Sanctum Hotel was in the news last year, billed as a rock-n-roll hotel where anything goes, sleepovers would never be dull with a 24 hour bar, in-room entertainment with Wii Fit, Guitar Hero and an ipod docking station so that you can play your own tunes at four in the morning without getting told off.

That's apparently what owner Mark Fuller, former band manager and now restaurateur and club owner (of Sugar Reef and Embassy London) encourages. If you've got music blaring, you won't be told to turn it off you'd be told to turn it up.

I think that same concept goes in No. 20, for when we arrived on a bitterly cold Monday evening we were welcomed by a Maitre D, a fulled-booked restaurant and rock music booming from the speakers.

After waiting for our table we were taken to one of the many American-inspired booths, with views of the kitchen and a speaker above our heads. Well if the conversation got dry at least the awkward silences wouldn't be so, erm, silent.

Settled in and cocktails ordered, a Bramble for me and G&T for the Mr, we ordered dinner and then played a game. The first to name the band of the music that was playing or for better use of a term screeching at us. With the likes of Feeder, Nirvana and Iron Maiden I was never going to win, I didn't even get Alanis Morisette when she came on telling us about rain on a wedding day. Great track.

Anyway, time to see how this rock'n'roll joint does with food...

We were told when we sat down that the chicken, the duck, the terrine, the sea bass - well a lot of things were sold out. So making a decision was hard, especially when I had already had my eye on the rotisserie chicken. If I was rock and roll I would have demanded it, if they were rock and roll - they would have got it for me! Shame, I'm more pop-inclined.

Anyway, after sharing some pretty boring and doughy bread our orders arrived.

To start with, six oysters with a shallot dressing and fresh lemon. The oysters were a little on the small side (check out the one at 7 o'clock) - but the last time I had the mollusc I was in South Africa - so these Irish ones can be forgiven for not living up to my usual standards. But they still tasted alright, they were plump and meaty and the tart dressing complimented the fishy taste perfectly. Could have done with some Tabasco though.

Mr ordered a charcuterie platter, with more bread but this time toasted, gherkins, olives and pickled onions. I had food envy - the meat was fresh and tender. The salami was peppery and delicious. A real winner when it came to hefty starters and he seemed pleased with it.

Next up main courses, Mr ordered a Wagyu beef burger, served with onion rings and chips. The burger, according to him, was very good but sandwiched between a dry bun and accompanied by overcooked chips and Wimpy style onion rings. So good if you're on the Atkins diet.

I'd never had this before and keen to try new things I ordered the Lobster Thermidor. Probably not the best idea - note to self order Lobster in SA, not in Soho. The crustacean was small, hardly had any meat, was tepid and the sauce was bland. What are you supposed to order to accompany lobster? Probably not chips because I was laughed at when I did. Don't know why I bothered, they were the same as the boyfriend's. Bland.

Not feeling full I ordered a dessert but I forgot to take a picture. So now I've forgotten what we had, whatever it was it wasn't memorable.

So dinner wasn't a huge rock'n'roll triumph, everything was just alright and I certainly wouldn't rush back. Perhaps the focus is on the hotel but I wouldn't know as we weren't invited to stay. Not sure if I would have wanted to, what with the music blaring, I wouldn't want to be in the room next to the 'turn it up' patrons.

Perhaps we ordered the wrong things, perhaps if the right things were available it would have been a more successful dinner. With such a huge selection of eateries in Soho I think No. 20 should up their game, or order more food so that the whole menu is available.